AFTER DINNER SPEECH AT FIRST WARRI REUNION, 
LONDON,
4TH OCTOBER 2003

by Tony Allwright, Warri, 1971-75

 

Ladies and Gentlemen, Veterans of Warri,

Well, who would have thought it.  30 odd years later,

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 with our irresponsible youth behind us 
and

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our irresponsible old age ahead of us,

here we are together again.  Testament to that old adage, WAWA, West Africa Wins Again. 

But I want us first to remember a few people.  There are many not with us today because they couldn’t make it or they didn’t know about it, but those are not who I am thinking about. 

It is those who have passed on, ahead of all of us, to that great mangrove swamp in the sky.  I know it is especially hard for those of you here today who have lost loved ones in the past three decades,

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loved ones who helped you to enjoy those halcyon Warri days, and

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 whom you helped to enjoy those same days. 

Can I ask everyone to stand for a moment

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while we remember and pray for those loved ones … (30 secs) …

and,

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as I know they themselves would wish,
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let us now raise our glasses to them and

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invite them to raise their glasses to us. 

To those who went before.

I also want to make mention of those whose feet are still on this firmament, who have done so much to make this extraordinary evening come to pass since it was first mooted eight months ago. 

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 Chris Allum, Chairperson of the organizing committee, who secured the venue and made all the logistical arrangements for tonight, and kept the rest of the Committee under ruthless control;  

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Eileen Russell, who handled all the individual bookings, contacts and correspondence – messages in their thousands – yes, thousands;

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Norman Holden, keeper of the purse, though it’s been like pulling teeth to get us all to pay up, renowned thespian and purveyor of  Nigerian ditties; 

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Steve Woods, accomplished MC for tonight, and our remote-control international rep operating out of Muscat, who also provided much of tonight’s magnificent decorations

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Warri, 1968-75, where to start … Whatever I say, someone will be thinking

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that’s not how I remember it”, or

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“why doesn’t he mention so-and-so”, or

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“what of that time we did such-and-such …”

But happily this is neither a debating society nor a press conference, so I don’t have to answer any questions !

The years we are commemorating, 1968-75, include some torrid times.  The Biafran civil war broke out in 1967 and raged furiously until the cease-fire in 1970, by which time two million unfortunates had died – mostly of starvation.  Most of the fighting took place in Port Harcourt and the rest of Biafra, but in the West where we were, commerce persevered through these years as best it could, with the oil industry mainly centred around Ughelli. 

Luckily Warri was more or less a sideshow.  There were occasional air raids and strafing runs from mercenaries like the ubiquitous Swedish Count von Rosen, otherwise known as the Red Baron. 

On one occasion he shot up John Holts and the Warri Dockyard workshop.  The next day someone spotted a small civilian biplane tootling down Warri Creek.  Everyone shouted “BIG BIG BLACK BIRD” and jumped in terror into the water. 

For many years after the war, newcomers would be proudly shown bullet holes in John Holts and other buildings and oil tanks, souvenirs of the Red Baron and his cohorts. 

Warri may have been a wartime sideshow but once the hostilities ended, Warri was anything but a sideshow. 

The peace dividend quickly manifested itself in a frenetic round of oilfield activity

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running seismic, drilling wells, building roads, constructing pumping stations, laying pipelines. 

And this “front-line” hysteria spawned a similar frenzy in supporting services –

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 banking, insurance, retailing, shipping, doctoring, logistics, booze and what have you. 

In about three short years this unprecedented boom not only re-established the pre-war production rate but doubled it to one million barrels a day in Warri (and the same by the way in PH).  

We should know; we were there for all of it.  We were the ones making all of it happen.  Though how we did it amongst all the distractions, not to mention our own bumbling ways, I don’t really know. 

For Warri was a pretty lively place for us, where we worked hard – and played harder. 

The camaraderie in those days was unique, much of our entertainment self-made, most of it fuelled by Star beer if not Ki-Ki. 

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There was the Warri Club with its amateur dramatic productions – 
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who can forget the mighty Peter 
Atkinson from Cameron as the 
sugar-plum fairy prancing on the 
stage in his tutu ? 

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or raucous renderings of “Bloody 
Warri”
with Graham Sanger at the 
ivories ?  

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or indeed cinema nights enlivened by 
pints of gin-and-tonic ?

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There was the Bush Hut
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not just an automatic magnet for an 
open-air liquid lunch after work on 
Saturday, 

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but the natural venue of annual events 
commemorating Robbie Burns, St 
George, St Patrick, Queen Juliana, 
Indonesia, and any excuse we 
could think of.   
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(I heard people even got 
married
there 30 years ago 
next month …)

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There was the Warri Rugby Club, nick-named the Midwest Flower-Power Children’s Team because each shirt had a different flower on the back instead of a number.  We regularly got thrashed by Yakubu Gowan’s Pretorian Guard, the holy Catholic priests (noted for ear-biting and eye-gouging), Guinness’s brewery, in fact pretty much anyone who deigned to play us.  But by God, we could out-drink them all afterwards. 

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There was the Swamp Road Golf Club, notable for its friendly caddies with those prehensile toes that ensured your ball was not only never lost, but always ended up on the fairway, never the rough.  No wonder caddies were obliged to wear shoes on competition day, even though footwear made them fall over. 

Local night spots sprang up, like

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The “Green Virgin”, noted for its pepper chicken and high life music;

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The “River Valley” with its gauntlet of nightfighters that we, ahem, gentlemen had to negotiate as we exited late at night;

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The MidWest Inn bar whose descent each evening into chaos was paralleled by the descent of those bottles of Star and Gulder;

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And on a more respectable note, the “Diplomat” restaurant and disco in the Mosheshe flats compound, run by William Matta who sadly was shot when he went home to Beirut on holiday at the beginning of the civil war there.

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 While for those of us who couldn’t wait for night-time, or even for lunch-time, an array of obliging contractors ran open bars every workday morning between about nine and noon; I’m sure their shareholders were as delighted as their clients were bleary-eyed as they drove home for lunch. 

There were those idyllic weekend getaways, known only to us who lived in Warri

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Up the creek to Burutu to play cricket and dance/drink the night away, with wobbly pushbikes the only way to get home on the island. 

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The silent splendour of Umutu with that small, ice-cold river flowing past the end of the garden, and its three-hole golf course. 

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 Abraka, set in the forest but on the banks of the delightful Ethiope River with water so crystalline you could clearly see the fish swimming at five metres depth as you floated downriver in an inflated inner tube. 

Do you remember some of the signs that used to pepper the roads, offices, bars etc, and for all I know still do ?

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 Outside the Standard Bank on the high street, “Don't Piss Here”.

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 On Swamp Road on the way to the Shell camp. “Ju-Ju Doctor - have your belly rubbed here to avoid all sorts venereal diseases”.

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 Outside another doctor’s surgery, “Specialist In Women And Other Sicknesses

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 Customers Who Find Our Waitresses Rude Ought To See The Manager

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 Special Cocktails For The Ladies - With Nuts

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 Outside a dentist, “Teeth Extracted By The Latest Methodists

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 Please check the cabin is present before entering the lift

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 At the Nigeria Airways office : “We Take Your Bags And Send Them In All Directions.”

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 And the ubiquitous “Best goat pepper soup

And then there was the fun of flying in and out of Warri International Airport, with the road closed by the barrier, and chickens and naked children shooed off the runway.  Apparently it’s just a heliport today; the wimps are too scared to land planes there any more.  We were made of sterner stuff. 

Little planes with propellers.  Of course they’re just fans to keep the pilots cool.  When they stop, you can actually watch the pilots sweating.  

 

Some people felt flying low over the swamps in a tropical storm was dangerous.  It wasn’t.  It’s the crashing that was dangerous. 

 

I would always advise the pilots to hold on to altitude.  No one has ever collided with the sky.  And to beware clouds, because the silver lining everyone keeps talking about might be another plane coming in the opposite direction. 

 

A “good” landing at Warri was one you could walk away from.  A “great” landing was one after which they could use the plane again.  Luckily there plenty of “great” landings. 

Do you remember the, er, cuisine in Warri ? 

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The egusi soup,

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the do-do, 

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the goat pepper,

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the roasted rats,

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the deep-fried flying ants,

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the toasted grasshopper legs,

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the jungle snails the size of dogs ?

Actually, a turtle was once walking down that road through Okeri village when he was mugged by a gang of those snails. A policeman arrived and asked the turtle if he could explain what happened.  The turtle looked at the detective in confusion.  I don't know, it all happened so fast.”

Talking of policemen, I was once pulled over in Warri by a large and very irate traffic cop.  

·       What colour am I ?” he demanded.  

·       I stammered in embarrassment, and mumbled something like, “Black” or “Dark Brown”.  

·       No I am not,” he cried, without a hint of humour.  

·       When I am like this” - and he raised his palm above his head - “I am red”.   

·       And then, waving his palm backwards over his shoulder, he added, “and when I am like this I am green.”

·       Do not drive past me again when I am red.”

Two fish in a tank.  One turns to the other and says “Do you know how to drive this?

And what about those newspapers ? 

Like the Lagos Weekend with its classic wedding story, “The Marriage was consummated on the High Altar, and the Groom wore a carnation in this bottom hole”.  There were other headlines,

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Prostitutes Appeal to Pope”,

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 Plane Too Close to Ground, Crash Probe Told”,

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 High Winds Rip Through Cemetery; Hundreds Dead”,

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 New Study of Obesity Looks for Larger Test Group

Okerie Village, Ju-Ju festivals, the Shitting Bridge.  Do these words not roll off our furred tongue and resonate on our ageing eardrums like sweet music from a far-off time ? 

 

But that was all then and this is today.  It has been great fun arranging tonight’s festivities. 

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 Should we do it again, in say a couple of years time, or five years time ?

I also want to draw your attention to the website put together for this evening.  It contains the full contact details of some 400 individual Warri Veterans.  It has already acted as a kind of Friends Reunited facility, even before tonight’s grand gathering, and I know of at least one lucrative job that has arisen as a direct result of Warri Veterans contacting each other via the site. 

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 I propose we keep it running, if only as a permanent repository of contact details that can be added to and modified over time ?

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In which case, photographs of tonight will be added over the next days and weeks as they become available.  Any that you want to share, just send them to me. 

And with that, I think I’ll leave you alone.  The bar closes at 11 pm for some unaccountable reason, so get your advance orders in early. 

Let me leave you with a few closing thoughts. 

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 Always remember that good judgment comes from bad experience, which in turn usually comes from bad judgment. 

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A woman is like a tea bag – you don't know how strong she is until you put her in hot water. 

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Men, on the other hand, are like floor tiles – lay them right the first time and you can walk over them for years.   

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If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

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If you think there is good in everybody, you haven't met everybody.

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And finally, here’s a little tale about that great Nigerian statesman, Mohandas Gandhi

o     He walked barefoot most of the time, which produced an impressive set of calluses on his feet.

o     He ate very little, which made him rather frail.

o     And with his odd diet, which included drinking his own urine every morning, he also suffered from bad breath.

All of this stuff made him a
  super-callused fragile mystic
vexed by halitosis
.

Thank You

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